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Vendors selling various goods at a street market near Meenakshi Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu, India ©CRS PHOTO/Shutterstock.com
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One step into the streets leading to the Meenakshi Amman temple and you know instantly why Madurai has Tamil Nadu’s soul. The shiny brassware in all shapes and sizes, colourful cotton sarees, the air full of sandal, flowers and incense rightly disturbed by foods; is all but just a precursor to the epic 3D show that Madurai is.
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The 24x7 life brimming in the markets seem quite characteristic here which is believed to have been inhabited since the third century and is a hub of old legends and trades. While the thousands of gods, demons and saints on Meenakshi temple’s huge gopurams seem to be telling more stories of the land.
The 2000-year old temple’s colourful maze-like complex is perhaps the finest example of Dravidian architecture. The majestic pillars, painted ceilings, and vibrant walls elicit awe the moment you lay your eyes on them. The golden lotus tank might just be a mute participant in the whole set but is the one which saw generations of talent come together and brainstorm on its sides and adjudged the compositions of great poets. Legend has it that only the worthy manuscripts would pass its test and float to the surface, the rest drowned.
All the wonder and the excitement somehow get converted into calmness upon entering the inner sanctum of this abode. It is customary to pay obeisance to the goddess before her consort Sundareshwarar or Shiva. The latter though steals the show come the night. Every night Lord Shiva’s icon is taken to the goddess’ shrine in a procession.
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Food food everywhere
The city makes sure that all the walks and shopping sprees are adequately supported by a plethora of food options readily available. Early morning can begin with the fluffiest and softest idlis ever at Murugan Idli Shop at MBT Road. The accompanying chutneys and piping hot sambhar just get you ready for more, the crispy ghee podi dosa being the next must.
The abundant varieties of murukkus, idiyappam and curries are every food lover’s delight. And, for the carnivore, a visit to Amma Mess at Thallakulam should be at the top of the to-do list for its chicken dosa, prawn biryani and mutton kola (fried mutton balls) among others. The big blocks of halwa everywhere would also surely catch attention.
A true temple town
While the Meenakshi temple is an unopposed resistance in Madurai, there are more little gems which are little known about. Koodal Azaghar temple not too far from the Meenakshi temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Unique three-level construction with the deity in sitting, standing and reclining position respectively, has walls that peep into the art and poetry that made Madurai an important seat of the Sangam era. The top-level gives you a bird’s eye view of the whole city with the Meenakshi temple’s south gopuram dominating the skyline at 170 feet.
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The tour, however, would be incomplete without visiting the favourite Tamil son. Thirupparamkunram Murugan temple on the outskirts is where Lord Shiva’s son, Murugan or Karthikeya killed demon Surapadman and married Indra’s daughter Deivayanai. One of the six abodes of Murugan, the rock-cut temple seems to be taking birth from the hills behind. So does Narasingam Yoga Narasimha Perumal Temple at the foot of the Yanaimalai hills. It has two idols of the presiding deity; one is inside the cave and the other one in the outer precincts is the ferocious version and the priests perform a bathing ritual regularly to pacify him.
Gone glory
Although being deteriorated it is not hard to imagine the original splendour of Thirumalai Nayak Palace. The structure may be imposing with tall columns and high roofs, yet its soft tones seem to welcome you. A wonderful mix of Dravidian, Rajput and Islamic architectures, this 17th-century palace is standing only a quarter of its original self.
The impressive courtyard with pillared corridors around is part of the main palace where the king used to live. The adjoining royal auditorium with equally ornate ceilings and coloured glass must have hosted the endless number of artists and important meetings. Built by king Tirumala Nayaka, the palace was considered among the great architectural wonders of south India. It was his grandson who demolished a large part of the palace and removed precious jewels and woodcarvings in order to build himself an equally impressive palace. As luck would have it, his dream never came true.
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