Tour the Kasbah's maze of rooms with one of the descendants of the original qaid (chief), including his office and hammam, light-filled courtyards and dark secret passageways. It's attached to the ksar (fortified village) where 300 families once lived, including 35 Jewish families – just 20 remain – along a warren of alleyways lit by skylights. See if you can distinguish between the Moorish, Amazigh (Berber) and Jewish motifs that blend so seamlessly here, or recognise a backdrop from award-winning films like Babel.
If Hassan isn't there, local guides hang around the entrance to the Kasbah.
