The only way to see the majestic mangroves of 66-sq-km Kuching Wetlands National Park is by boat. About 15km northwest of Kuching, the park has no office, just low-lying islands and saline waterways lined with salt-resistant trees that provide food and shelter for proboscis monkeys, silver-leaf monkeys, fireflies, estuarine crocodiles, amphibious fish called mudskippers, and countless varieties of fish and prawns. Nearby open water is one of the finest places in Sarawak to spot snub-nosed Irrawaddy dolphins.
The morning (about 9am) is the best time to see the dolphins, while late-afternoon cruises are optimal for sighting a flash of reddish-brown fur as proboscis monkeys leap from tree to tree in search of the tenderest, tastiest young leaves. Sunset on the water is magical – and unbelievably romantic, especially if your guide points out an api-api tree (a ‘firefly tree’, surrounded by swirling green points of light). After dark, by holding a torch up at eye level, you can often spot the reflections of animalian eyes, including – if you’re lucky – a crocodile.
