The rocky 4WD road to Navilawa hugs the Sabeto River, and there are some perfect swimming holes and waterfalls to plunge in: ask permission first from any locals you see. The village is set in an old volcanic crater surrounded by forest and mountains. There’s a short rainforest hike to a cave beside a clear-flowing creek; the villagers use the cave during cyclones.
Visitors should take a sevusevu (gift) and make themselves known on arrival for a low-key and very authentic kava welcoming ceremony.
There's a simple self-contained lodge ($45) with six beds, or ask around for a homestay. Bring your own food.
At the time of research, there was no access to the national park from here due to a 2011 landslide (though efforts were underway to have the trail re-opened by the end of 2015), but it's a worthwhile visit for those seeking an authentic village atmosphere.