Plonked on a hill above the centre for all to behold in wonder, the Romanesque and Gothic St Stephansmünster shelters a faded fresco cycle, Martin Schongauer’s The Last Judgment (1491), and a magnificent altar triptych (1526) carved from linden wood. From the tree-shaded square outside, the Schänzletreppe steps lead down to the Gutgesellentor, the gate where Pope John XXIII was scandalously caught fleeing the Council of Constance in 1415.
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