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Statue of Nizami Gəncəvi

Azerbaijan's Gəncə-born 'national poet' (1141–1209) stands opposite the drama theatre, looking across the river towards a puppet theatre that is housed in a brick former church.

Behind Gəncəvi is the fascinatingly hideous 1970s bulk of the Kəpəz Hotel, with its decaying concrete balconies and a cavernous, almost-empty reception that would make a fine set for a suspense movie.

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