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Yeni Tzami

This early-19th-century Turkish mosque, with crumbling atmosphere to spare, is near the end of Ermou, where a Turkish market used to thrive. In front of it, a little boat with a Smyrna (Greek for Izmir) port of registration sign is a touching memorial to millions who were forced to leave their homes for good in the epic exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey in 1923.

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