Taiwan's psychedelic Rainbow Village

Nothing can prepare you for the sudden burst of trippy hues that greet visitors from a distance itself as they drive into the Nantun district that houses Rainbow Village, the piece de resistance of Taiwan.

As we zip past some popular neighbourhoods of Taichung, the second largest city of this tobacco-leaf shaped country that boasts not just artistically designed new age high-rises and some of the swankiest coffee and tea bars but also awe-inspiring historical structures that go back to the Japanese colonial period, we are told about Huang Yung-Fu who had – well, unwittingly, turned this little village into a delightful palette of colours. And it sure is not difficult to feel overwhelmed by the bright reds, yellows, and greens that immediately cast their magical spell upon visitors.

There’s a delightful tiger, a bunch of cats, a young couple holding hands, clowns, roosters, birds among hundreds of merry characters that seem straight out of a painting book. You might even spot 'Bruce Lee', a volunteer at the Village lets on as she walks past. Indeed, as simple, charming shapes, almost child-like in appearance open out, we can’t help but pause in front of each of them and share the happiness so beautifully expressed on their faces.

Art aficionados might try to delve deeper into the style of the murals (“could they be a part of the surrealist school or have they been inspired by Australian aboriginal art?), but it’s best, as we’re advised, to just call them works of a romantic soul who had a mission to save this settlement that had long been home to him, from demolition.

The 1924-born Huang Yung-Fu, the creator of these works, had joined the army to fight the Japanese in the Second Sino-Japanese War and later the Communist Party in the Chinese Civil War. After returning to Taiwan, Yung-Fu decided to lead a quiet, retired life in this very village. Of course, it looked completely different then, where nine other retired army personnel had also set up their homes.

A lover of Kung-fu and seven-star drumming in his youth, painting (even though his father was believed to be a renowned artist of his time) was something Yung-Fu was never keen on. But, years later, when news of efforts to modernise this part of Taichung and hence the razing of this neighbourhood reached them, all the veterans decided to leave. All except Huang Yung-Fu who couldn't bear the thought of abandoning his now home of over 40 years.

In the year 2010 as everyone from the village moved to other neighbourhoods, Yung-Fu was left alone. Bored, he picked up a brush and oil colours, and got down to first painting the inside walls and then the façade of his home. He then moved to his neighbours’ empty houses and soon had covered every inch of space including the roof and floors with vibrant artworks. Yung-Fu may have started painting in a bid to perhaps kill boredom, but what he did not realise was this is what would not just help save his village from demolition but also make it famous across the world.

And this happened when a group of art students, from the universities of Ling Tung and Hungkuang in Taichung, intrigued by the colours that they spotted in place of drab, grey houses that had always stood here stopped by for a look. Charmed with what they saw, the students decided to send a petition urging the mayor of Taichung not to destroy something so unique. Their pleas worked, and the erstwhile settlement of war veterans soon not just got a new name (Rainbow Village) but also became one of the area’s most unique and precious attractions.

And, even though each day brings in busloads of tourists, Yung-Fu - now lovingly referred to as Grandpa Rainbow lives life, we are told, and the way he always did. He gets up early and starts painting, not just to ensure that the colours of his murals always look fresh but also to replace some old figures with new ones.

The Rainbow Village also houses a Museum Shop that sells a variety of souvenirs such as mugs, hats, umbrellas, gifts, and paintings. A little café next door offers snacks, ice creams, and fruit juice in paper cups decorated with prints of Grandpa Rainbow’s paintings. A small area, complete with a table and chair is earmarked for the nonagenarian artist who often comes and sits here. And should you be lucky, Grandpa Rainbow just might talk to you and even pose for some selfies with you.

The author has long been a journalist with the mainstream media and a broadcaster with All India Radio. She is now enjoying her stint as an independent writer. The Delhi-based journalist is the happiest writing on people, places, and anything that touches the heart. More on: traveltrailsandmore.com

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