The ultimate weekend in Luang Prabang, Laos

There’s something magical about Luang Prabang that seems to defy the passing of time. Despite the increased tourist numbers that came from its 1995 inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrating its fusion of traditional Lao and colonial French architecture, the heritage area still doesn’t have a McDonald’s, Starbucks or even a traffic light. You won’t hear the sound of cars or motorbikes honking (it’s considered rude) and its people remain kind and hospitable, with ready smiles for everyone.

While the main streets do fill up in the evenings (and popular restaurants are often booked out in high season), there’s still plenty to see and do in the surrounding areas on land and water.

• How to get from the airport: The Luang Prabang Airport is just 4km from the heritage area, and there are plenty of taxis available for the short, inexpensive ride.

• Getting around town: The main streets of the heritage area are relatively walkable. There are also shops offering bicycle and motorbike rentals. Download the Laos eBike app to get around by e-bike.

• Where to stay: It’s hard to beat the location of the 3 Nagas Hotel in Luang Prabang’s Old Quarter. With just 15 rooms in two heritage homes, a stay here feels intimate and steeped in history. The outdoor restaurant faces the main road, making it excellent for people-watching and the perfect vantage point for the early morning almsgiving procession which passes just in front of the hotel.
  
  A former French governor’s residence, the Sofitel Luang Prabang is a true oasis tucked away in its own compound, with the serene Le Spa, a gorgeous outdoor swimming pool and the superb Governor’s Grill, blending fine Western gastronomy and traditional Lao cuisine. Don't miss the spicy herbal sai oua sausages with tamarind sauce.
  
  You’ll feel like royalty at La Résidence Phou Vao, built on the site of the royal guesthouse. From its position high up on a hill, views past one of the prettiest infinity pools in town stretch all the way to Wat Phu Si which appears to float when lit up at night. Every guest is welcomed with a blessing ritual while highlights include 37 light-filled suites, a private cruise boat and one of Luang Prabang’s largest wellness sanctuaries surrounded by beautifully manicured grounds.

• What to pack: Light, loose-fitting clothing works best in Luang Prabang’s tropical heat. A water-repellent jacket and wide-brimmed hat will come in handy against sun and rain. You’ll likely be visiting a few temples, so bring something (like a shawl) to cover up to knees and elbows.

Day 1:  Exploring Luang Prabang’s nature and culture

Early morning

One of the best ways to appreciate Luang Prabang’s natural beauty is by river cruise. While most visitors opt for the more popular sunset cruise, buck the trend and go for sunrise instead. While there won’t be join-in boats like there would be at sunset, the tradeoff is that you’ll see the river at its most quiet, as the pink glow of dawn illuminates the surrounding mountains. You’ll need to charter your own boat. The elegant Sofitel boat accommodates up to 6 passengers and serves a scrumptious breakfast for a pinch-me moment.

Spend the rest of the day exploring the town’s heritage area. Climb up Mount Phu Si for stellar views, visit Wat Xiengthong, the grandest of them all, or drop into the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre. Add an element of fun by solving riddles on the Legend of the Lost Treasure scavenger hunt and be rewarded with a sweet treat at the end. When you need a break, there are plenty of chic cafés, bakeries and very reasonably-priced massage places around town.  

Late-afternoon

A large part of Luang Prabang’s allure lies in its gorgeous blend of French and Lao architectural styles. Appreciate how these heritage buildings have been thoughtfully repurposed at Nagini Bar, set inside a beautifully restored Victorian-era mansion. The BOGO signature cocktails are a steal between 3-6pm at only 9 US dollars (US$9) for two. Soak in the dark woods, bold prints and trendy backlit bar as you sip on innovative cocktails that showcase Lao ingredients like locally-sourced Nam Bak oranges and brown rum from Naxone village.

Note: You'll find that prices in Laos are commonly quoted in US dollars or Lao kip, depending on the vendor.

Evening

Continue the design-forward evening with dinner at either Little Lao House (serving southern Lao specialties) or next-door Little Lao Culture Bar (serving northern Lao cuisine). Both have stunning interiors and artfully presented dishes ideal for sharing. To round out the night, browse the artisanal souvenirs at Little Lao House or take the iron staircase at Little Lao Culture Bar up to the atmospheric Sun Song Social for classic cocktails.

Day 2: Monks, mulberry paper and Mekong River views

tak bat morning alms

Seeing dozens of orange-clad monks, emerging from the dim morning light in a silent procession to receive alms, is undoubtedly high on many people's bucket lists. Without a word or any eye contact, the town’s approximately 1850 monks and 3500 novices come from 15 temples throughout the heritage area to receive sticky rice and other offerings from devotees and, increasingly, tourists (who now vastly outnumber locals), eager to be a part of this age-old tradition. While almsgiving (known as tak bat) takes place throughout the heritage area, it’s most concentrated along Sakkaline Rd, where low stools are placed along the sidewalk with vendors and hotels providing alms (for a fee) to those who want to participate. Photo-wielding tourists line up on the other side of the barrier, creating a narrow corridor where the monks walk, which can make the whole ritual seem more like a production than the meditative merit-making it’s meant to be. If you do decide to observe or even participate, spend some time educating yourself on how to have a meaningful connection with tak bat, or book more immersive experiences like those offered by La Residence Phou Vao, which include waking up very early to cook sticky rice or making lunch to be delivered to the temples. Read more on tak bat do’s and don’ts from a local monk at the end of this article.

How to spend the day

Just about 5km east of Luang Prabang is Ban Xang Khong, a craft village primarily known for saa papermaking, a traditional handmade paper using the bark of the mulberry tree. Many of the shops conduct free demonstrations of how it's made, including decorating the wet pulp with dried flowers and leaves before setting the frames out to dry in the sun. But tootle around the one-road village and you’ll inevitably find something to feed your creative soul, whether it’s a pottery workshop or cooking class at P 70, weaving a belt or camera strap on a backstrap loom with the Weaving Sisters, or making a lantern or other paper products at Simone Handicraft. Even if you’re not crafty, there are at least a dozen little shops where you can pick up handmade gifts.

Evening

Catch the sunset at one of the many restaurants overlooking the Mekong River on Khem Khong Rd. A no-frills restaurant popular with locals is Pasaniyom, where a dinner of noodles with shrimp, a bold papaya salad and a refreshing coconut shake will cost less than 150,000 kip (150,000K). Afterwards, walk off your meal with a leisurely stroll browsing the riverside’s many boutiques and cafés.

Day 3: Head to the hills

Morning

Luang Prabang province is home to at least eight distinct ethnic groups. Spend the morning driving along dusty roads up into the hills in a vintage Soviet-made Jeep from 1969 with Vy Moto Laos. Vy is both a guide and a mechanic, so you’ll be in good hands as he takes you into Hmong and Khmu villages that see few visitors. Authentic scenes you might encounter include people harvesting watercress in a spring-fed mountain pool, Hmong ladies deftly embroidering while watching their children or women preparing freshly-picked herbs for market. On the way back, stop for lunch at the Nam Dong Waterfall.

Afternoon

Luang Prabang’s sleepy charm simply invites relaxation. If your hotel doesn’t have a pool, live like a king (or at least a French governor) with a pool day access pass at the Sofitel Luang Prabang, a former governor’s residence. While the afternoon away lazing by the award-winning crystalline pool with an icy Beer Lao in hand. Tucked away in a quiet compound, the only noise you’re likely to hear will be from the neighborhood chickens.    

Evening

Pick up some mementos of your time in Luang Prabang from some of the chic boutiques in town and at the Night Market (5-10pm). Some favorites are Ock Pop Tok, a social enterprise that aims to preserve Laos’ textile traditions, Her Works for handmade products from some of Laos’  lesser-known ethnic minorities and the TAEC Boutique, run by the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre. Home accessories, silver jewelry, paper goods and Lao coffee are especially great buys. Nosh on street food or a fruit shake as you browse the nearly 300 stalls that make up the Night Market.

After your ultimate weekend in Luang Prabang, take the scenic slow boat to Huay Xai on the border with Thailand, a train to China on the Lao-China Railway or a bus to Phonsavan to witness the Plain of Jars.

Tips from a monk on how to connect with tak bat

Monk O Bee is an instructor on Vipassana meditation and Theravada Buddhism at Luang Prabang’s Wat Siphoutthabat. Since returning to Luang Prabang in 2012, he’s noticed a significant change in the makeup of Luang Prabang. “In the past, it was mostly local people offering alms. They knew exactly what to offer, what monks eat, because they grew up with this. Now that the heritage area has been developed, many locals have moved out. So now you have a few hundred people giving alms without knowing what they’re giving or how to behave. Last year, some tourists saw my 9-year-old novice monk and they picked him up and even rubbed his head. Nowadays, there are chairs for tourists, but it’s customary to sit on the ground when giving alms. Even the king sits on the ground when almsgiving. Tourists also set their food containers on the ground rather than holding them in their laps, above their feet.

“For local people, almsgiving is a way to share what they have, to kill their selfishness by giving and to start their day by doing a good thing. They get up at 3am to prepare the offerings themselves. Buddhist people will take their offering and touch it to their forehead before putting it in the monk’s bowl to signify that the offering comes from their dedication, their soul, showing the highest form of respect. It has meaning for them.

“Visitors should try to have a connection with tak bat; not just give for a few minutes and take pictures. Try to remember the meaning of tak bat in your everyday life by practicing giving and selflessness. Also, remember that unless you feel a connection to tak bat, it’s fine to just observe.”

Tak bat do’s and don’ts

• Give healthy food; limit sugary items.

• Get involved in preparing the offerings. Some hotels like La Residence Phou Vao allow guests to cook the sticky rice themselves or help prepare lunch to be offered at the temple.

• Sit on the ground when almsgiving (although it’s fine to sit in a chair while waiting for the monks to come).

• Learn about the significance of almsgiving. Wat Siphoutthabat (near the base of Mount Phu Si) offers informational sessions.

• Cover your body. Women should not bare their shoulders while men should wear long trousers.

• Use the disposable gloves handed out by vendors and hotels. Otherwise, wash your hands well.

• The monks are engaged in walking meditation. Keep disturbances to an absolute minimum when it comes to noise, camera flashes and jostling for position with other observers.

• Do not touch the monks, including their hands, robes or bowls.

• Wait until the entire procession has passed before getting up and leaving.

James Pham visited Luang Prabang at the invitation of KS Hotels and Resorts. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.