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Alfama, Castelo & Graça

This is the Lisbon you have no doubt dreamed about: a Moorish castle slung on a hillside, cobbled alleys twisting to sky-high viewpoints and laundry-strung houses in a fresco-painter’s palette of colours. In this corner of the city, life is played out on the streets. Fado still rocks as it did way back when, one-pan family bistros fire up their grills at lunchtime, and the neighbourly vibe keeps things alluringly low-key, but not without a struggle. Lisbon's tourism boom is altering Alfama's character, so authenticity is endangered here.
Stone columns and a vine-draped pergola above blue-and-white tiled walls, with orange rooftops and a white dome beyond.

John Harper/Getty Images

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