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Its Kale

A more heavily fortified section within the Kastro, the Its Kale (Inner Castle) today feels less like a citadel than a city park. Inside the ramparts, on grassy lawns, are two museums, a cafe and the restored Fethiye Cami (Victory Mosque), built in 1611 after a failed Greek uprising that saw Christians expelled from the citadel. In front is the rather bedraggled Tomb of Ali Pasha, under a filigree pergola; the ruins of his palace sit beyond.

Also look for the tiny Chapel of Agion Argyron, tucked behind the so-called Treasury, one surviving part of the palace, the function of which is still unknown. The other major extant structure is a portion of a round Byzantine-era tower, from when the Despotate of Epiros ruled from here.

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Must-see attractions

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