This crumbling 17th-century fort and palace, on the eastern bank of the Ganges, isn't a prime attraction, but the eccentric museum has some interesting displays and the attached Vyas Temple is a beautiful place to watch the sun set over the river. There are vintage American cars, jewel-encrusted sedan chairs, a superb weaponry section (including a lion trap and a sword with two pistols attached) and an extremely unusual astrological clock – along with plenty of dust and evidence of rodents.
The current maharaja, Anant Narayan Singh – still known in these parts as the Maharaja of Benares despite such royal titles being officially abolished in 1971 – continues his family tradition of attending the annual month-long Ram Lila drama festival held in the streets behind the fort.
You can get here on a shared autorickshaw from along Mandapur/Shivala Rd to Lanka Chowk and then another to the fort. You can also hire a boat for the round-trip from the ghats (about ₹500).
